Eastern Washington, Washington Electrical and Electrician

In most Eastern Washington homes, there are a wide variety of electical components such as circuits, breakers, service panels and GFCI breakers. Each type serves a very specific purpose. This information highlights each major component and tips on eletrical safety and maintenance.

What is the definition of a Circuit?

A circuit is the route electric current travels, from the place where power enters your house (the service entrance panel or a sub-panel wired to it) begin turning the lights back on to a piece of equipment using electricity (such as an electric blender) and back again to its starting point. The National Electrical Code requires that every circuit have a grounding system. Grounding makes sure that, if a short circuit takes place, Each part that is metal of the wiring system or of lamps or appliances associated with it will be maintained at zero volts. The grounding wire for all circuits are attached to the distribution center and next is run the neutral and hot wires in the branch circuits.

Distribution Center and Service Entrance Panel

The wires from the master connect to the service entrance panel, the control center for your home's electrical service. Contained in a cabinet or box, the panel is normally situated on the exterior of the house, underneath the electric meter. It can also be located on an interior wall, precisely behind the meter. In this panel you'll normally discover the main disconnect - the main circuit breakers or main fuses to which the wires attach. Once passing through the main disconnect, the wires enter a distribution center encased in the service entrance panel or in a separate sub-panel. At this location is where the current is partitioned into branch circuits, each sheltered by a fuse or circuit breaker. These branch circuits subsequently run to switches, receptacles, lights, and permanently wired appliances. The distribution center and service entrance panel in your home are setup with either fuses or circuit breakers. These are the fragile points of every circuit - the safety mechanisms that keep the branch circuits and anything adjoining them from overheating and catching fire. If there is an overload or a short circuit, a circuit breaker will trip or a fuse will blow, shutting off the flow of current.

Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers are long-lasting switches that operate the same as fuses. When a circuit is transporting more current than is safe, the breaker changes to Reset. For most breakers, the switch needs to be moved to the "Off" position and subsequently to "On" once a circuit is tripped. The distribution center and service entrance panel in the residence are setup with either circuit breakers or fuses.

Tripped breaker (plugs and lights not working)

If there's an overload or a short circuit, a circuit breaker will trip or a fuse will blow, closing off the flow of current. Reset the breaker by repositioning the handle to off position, then reposition the handle to the one position. Note: If it persists in tripping, don't continue trying to reset the breaker. The breaker needs to cool down once tripped. While it is cooling, shut off all lighting and unplug everything connected to the circuit that has tripped, then try resetting the breaker. If the breaker does reset, start turning lights back on and plugging items back in until it trips again. This method will eventually identify the light or electrical item that is initiating the problem.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

The GFCI is a special type of circuit breaker that is installed in garage, outdoor, and bathroom areas. If there's an electrical current leakage, or "ground fault," the GFCI opens the electrical circuit instantaneously, cutting off the electricity. When a GFCI is tripped, reset it the same way you would a conventional circuit breaker. For a receptacle GFCI, press the Reset button.

The Wiring of Homes

New homes in Eastern Washington have what is referred to as a "3-wire service." The utility company feeds 3 wires - two "hot," 1 neutral - through a meter to the home service entrance panel. These wires provide both 120-volt and 240-volt facilities. The neutral wire and one hot wire combined provide 120 volts, the amount used for the majority of household applications, such as light fixtures and small appliances. Both hot wires and the neutral wire can form a 120/240-volt circuit for such needs as a range and dryer. Connections between wires are made inside metal or plastic boxes mounted on the ceiling or in the walls. Switches, receptacles, and wall or ceiling-mounted lighting each includes its own boxes. Each wire is wrapped in color-coded insulation for simple identification. Though hot wires are generally red or black, they may be any color not including gray, green or white. Neutral wires are gray or white. Grounding wires are bare or green.

Busted Bulb

If your light bulb has broken at the holder, shut down the power at the mains making absolutely sure noone can turn it on by mistake and push a carrot into the brass connector. Use this as a handle to twist out.

Suggestions for preserving efficient light fixtures

Change other bulbs throughout the house with bulbs of the next lower wattage.

Think about installing high-low switches or solid-state dimmers when changing light switches. They make it easy to lessen the intensity of light in a room and therefore save energy.

Utilize compact fluorescent lights whenever your can; they provide more lumens per watt than luminescent lamps. These new lights can fit into many incandescent lamp sockets and give the same quality of light.

With efficiencies of 50-60 lumens per watt, the compact fluorescent lamps are 3-4 times more economical conventional bulbs and last 10 times as long. For example, an 18-watt compact fluorescent lamp emits the same amount of light as a 75-watt incandescent lamp. Though the original cost is greater, the savings in electricity expenses may pay for the compact fluorescent bulb in roughly a year.

How to ascertain whether a rewire is needed

If you have just moved in and unsure if you need a rewire, look for the following points. They point toward the possibility that you wiring must have an upgrade:

Round light switches or pin sockets.

Black rubber cables, switches & light holders.

Cotton covered cables or twisted wires from light fittings.

Sockets in skirting boards or switches on wall in bathroom.

General Indoor Electrical Safety Suggestions for Homes in Eastern Washington

People are superb conductors of electricity, particularly when they are on a damp floor or standing in water. Your body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. Follow these safety precautions to avoid the threat of injury, or even death:

At times, a white wire will be used as a hot wire. For easy identification, it should be taped or painted black where it is close to terminals and splices.

Touching a faulty appliance, plug, or bare wire can make you part of the electric circuit and put you in jeopardy of electric shock.

Frayed wires are hazardous anywhere. They should be fixed as soon as possible, or even better yet, replaced.

Switch inflexible electric cords and follow Underwriters Laboratories (UL) guidelines.

Repair any appliance that shocks you, sparks, or emits smoke.

Never use any electric appliance while in the shower or tub.

Don't use any appliance while you're touching metal pipes and faucets or anything moist.

Outlets near water sources (garages, bathrooms, outdoors, kitchen sinks) should be "ground fault circuit interrupter" (GFCI) protected as explained above.

Never touch an electric cord or appliance while your hands are moist.

Unplug appliances before cleaning them or removing anything from them (that burnt toast from your toaster, for example).

Don't jerk the cord when unplugging appliances.

Instruct children not to put things into electrical outlets. Plastic outlet guards intended for toddlers are a good idea.

Keep work spaces clean. Sawdust, newspapers, and oily rags may be set ablaze from electric sparks.

Never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Check the wattage on your appliance labels and be sure the combined wattage of every appliance that you want to plug into the same circuit does not exceed 1440 watts for a 15-amp circuit, and 1920 watts for a 20-amp circuit.