Lincoln & Vicinity, Nebraska Electrical and Electrician

In most Lincoln & Vicinity homes, there are a wide variety of electical components such as circuits, breakers, service panels and GFCI breakers. Each type serves a very specific purpose. This information highlights each major component and tips on eletrical safety and maintenance.

What is a Circuit?

A circuit is the route electric current moves, from the point where power comes into your house (the service entrance panel or a sub-panel wired to it) start turning the lights back on to a device utilizing electricity (such as a light switch) and back to its point of origin. The National Electrical Code requires that all circuits have a grounding system. Grounding ensures that, during an episode of a short circuit, Each part that is metal of the wiring system or of electrical appliances or fixtures united with it will be kept at zero volts. The grounding wire for all circuits are attached to the distribution center and followed by running the neutral and hot wires in the branch circuits.

Distribution Center and Service Entrance Panel

The wires from the master connect to the service entrance panel, the control center for your home's electrical service. Contained in a box or cabinet, the panel is frequently situated on the outside of your home, under the electric meter. It can also be positioned an inside wall, at the back of the meter. In this panel you'll normally discover the main disconnect - the main fuses or main circuit breakers to which the wires adjoin. Subsequent to passing through the main disconnect, the wires go through a distribution center enclosed in the service entrance panel or in a separate sub-panel. It is here that the current is segmented into branch circuits, each one sheltered by a circuit breaker or fuse. The branch circuits run to switches, receptacles, lights, and permanently wired appliances. The distribution center and service entrance panel in your residence are equipped with either circuit breakers or fuses. These areas are the weak points of each circuit - the safety mechanisms that keep the branch circuits and anything joining to them from overheating and catching fire. If there's an overload or a short circuit, a circuit breaker will trip or a fuse will blow, shutting off the flow of current.

Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers are durable switches that serve the same use as fuses. When a circuit is transporting more current than is safe, the breaker switches to Reset. For most breakers, the switch has to be pushed to the "Off" position and next to "On" once a circuit trips. The distribution center and service entrance panel in the house are equipped with either fuses or circuit breakers.

Tripped breaker (lights and plugs stop working)

If there is an overload or a short circuit, a circuit breaker will trip or a fuse will blow, shutting off the flow of current. Reset the breaker by pushing the lever to off position, then reposition the handle to the one position. Note: If it continues to trip, do not persist in resetting the breaker. The breaker needs to cool down once tripped. While it's in the process of cooling, shut off all lighting and disconnect anything connected to the circuit that was tripped, then attempt to reset the breaker. If it resets, start turning lights back on and plugging items back in until it trips again. This process will identify the item or light that is instigating the problem.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

The GFCI is a unique kind of circuit breaker that is installed in outdoor, garage, and bathroom areas. If there is an electrical current seepage, or "ground fault," the GFCI exposes the electrical circuit instantly, cutting off the electricity. When a GFCI is tripped, reset it the same way you would a conventional circuit breaker. For a receptacle GFCI, push the Reset button.

How Houses are Wired

Recently built homes in Lincoln & Vicinity have what is identified as a "three-wire service." The utility company feeds 3 wires - two "hot," one neutral - through a meter to your home's service entrance panel. These wires provide both 120-volt and 240-volt resources. One hot wire and the neutral wire together supply 120 volts, the amount intended for most household applications, such as small appliances and lights. Both the neutral wire and the hot wires can form a 120/240-volt circuit for needs such as a range and dryer. Connections between wires are made inside plastic or metal boxes mounted in the walls or on the ceiling. Switches, receptacles, and wall or ceiling-mounted light fixtures all consist of their own boxes. Each single wire is wrapped in insulation that is color-coded for easy identification. Though wires that are hot are as a rule red or black, they might be any color except green, white or gray. Neutral wires are gray or white. Grounding wires are bare or green.

Busted Bulb

If your light bulb has broken at the holder, shut down the power at the mains making sure nobody can turn it on by error and push a carrot into the brass connector. Use this as a handle to twist out.

Instructions for keeping efficient lighting

Switch other bulbs throughout the house with bulbs of the next lower wattage.

Contemplate installing high-low switches or solid-state dimmers while changing light switches. They make it simple to lessen the intensity of light in a room and in turn save energy.

Use compact fluorescent lights whenever your can; they distribute more lumens per watt than incandescent lamps. These new lights can fit into many incandescent lamp sockets and provide the same quality of light.

With efficiencies of 50-60 lumens per watt, the compact fluorescent lamps are 3-4 times more economical conventional bulbs and last 10 times as long. For instance, an 18-watt compact fluorescent lamp supplies the same amount of light as a 75-watt incandescent lamp. Though the preliminary cost is greater, the savings in electrical bills could pay for the compact fluorescent bulb in roughly one year.

How to conclude whether a rewire is required

If you've just moved in and questioning if a rewire is necessary for your home, look for the following points. They point toward the likelihood that you wiring must have an upgrade:

Round light switches or pin sockets.

Black switches, light holders & rubber cables.

Cotton covered cables or twisted wires from light fittings.

Sockets in skirting boards or switches on wall in bathroom.

General Indoor Electrical Safety Instructions for Homes in Lincoln & Vicinity

People are excellent conductors of electricity, particularly when they are on a damp floor or standing in water. Your body may act like a lightning rod and transmit the current to the ground. Follow these safety precautions to avoid the threat of injury, or even death:

Occasionally, a white wire will be used as a hot wire. For easy identification, it should be taped or painted black where it's close to splices and terminals.

Touching a faulty appliance, plug, or bare wire can make you part of the electric circuit and put you in danger of electric shock.

Frayed wires are hazardous anywhere. They should be fixed as soon as possible, or even better yet, replaced.

Exchange inflexible electric cords and follow Underwriters Laboratories (UL) guidelines.

Repair any appliance that emits smoke, shocks you, or sparks.

Never use any electric appliance while in the tub or shower.

Don't use any appliance while you're touching metal pipes and faucets or anything moist.

Outlets near water sources (outdoors, kitchen sinks, garages, bathrooms) should be "ground fault circuit interrupter" (GFCI) protected as explained above.

By no means should you touch an electric cord or appliance while your hands are wet.

Unplug appliances before cleaning them or removing anything from them (that burnt toast from your toaster, for example).

Don't heave the cord when unplugging appliances.

Train children not to put things into electrical outlets. Plastic outlet guards designed for toddlers are a good idea.

Keep work spaces clean. Oily rags, newspapers, and sawdust may be set ablaze from electric sparks.

Never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Check the wattage on your appliance labels and be sure that the combined wattage of every appliance you want to plug into the same circuit does not exceed 1440 watts for a 15-amp circuit, and 1920 watts for a 20-amp circuit.